A set of tired kitchen chairs and a dining room table don’t have to be replaced—they can be completely transformed with some simple refinishing work. Anyone can refinish kitchen chairs by cleaning, sanding, and applying a fresh coat of paint or stain to give them new life. This simple project doesn’t require a workshop or fancy tools, just a bit of time and a few basic supplies. We’ve refinished a few different furniture pieces and dining room chairs over the years, let us show you.
Getting Ready To Refinish Kitchen Chairs
Refinishing kitchen chairs takes more than just a fresh coat of paint. It’s about having the right supplies, a space you can work in comfortably, and making sure you stay safe as you go.
Gathering The Right Materials And Tools
Wood furniture refinishing starts with the right gear. At a minimum, people will need:
- Screwdriver (to remove hardware)
- Sandpaper in various grits (typically 80, 120, and 220)
- Orbital sander (optional but helpful for large flat areas)
- Tack cloth or clean rag
- Paintbrushes or foam brushes or paint sprayer
- Wood stain, paint, or primer and topcoat
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
- Painter’s tape
- paint stripper and a scouring pad
- paper towels
- mineral spirits
Choosing high-quality sandpaper helps produce a smoother finish. If the chair is damaged, wood filler and a putty knife come in handy. Many find a small vacuum valuable when cleaning up sanding dust before painting. Having all the supplies laid out ahead of time saves time and prevents mistakes.
Choosing A Work Space
It’s best to set up in a garage, basement, or outdoors on a dry day. The space should be well-ventilated since stains and paints release fumes. Enough room to move around each chair is important, along with a flat, steady surface to work on.
People often place a tarp, cardboard, or plastic sheeting under the chairs to catch any drips. Easy access to natural or artificial light makes it easier to see imperfections. If working inside, open windows or use a fan to keep air moving. Avoid windy outdoor spots that can blow dust or dirt onto the wet finish.
Safety Prep And Protective Gear
Refinishing supplies can be hazardous if used incorrectly. Before starting, everyone should gather basic protective gear:
- Disposable gloves to protect hands from chemicals and stains
- Dust mask or respirator to prevent inhaling sanding particles and fumes
- Safety glasses to shield eyes from debris and splashes
- Old clothes or an apron that can get dirty
If using strong chemicals, read the label and work in as much ventilation as possible. Keep children and pets away from the work area to avoid accidental exposure. Make sure there is access to water or a first aid kit in case of spills or splashes.
Removing Old Finish
Getting kitchen chairs ready for a new finish begins with removing the old layers. For best results, stripping, sanding, and cleaning are crucial!
Stripping Paint Or Varnish
Old paint or varnish often needs to be stripped off before refinishing a chair. Chemical strippers are popular and usually come in gel or liquid form. Using gloves and working in a well-ventilated space protects against fumes and skin contact. After applying the stripper with a brush, they should let it sit as directed by the product instructions, typically 15–30 minutes.
Softened finish can then be scraped off with a plastic or metal scraper. For detailed areas, a toothbrush, steel wool, or a small brass brush comes in handy. It’s important to change out tools when they get gummed up to avoid smearing residue. If any stubborn bits remain, a second stripping may be needed for complete removal.
We’ve got a few tutorials on stripping furniture. My new go-to stripper is called QCS stripper, and it is all natural (NO VOC formula).
Sanding Techniques For Chairs
Sanding smooths out rough edges and removes the last bits of old finish. For flat areas, it helps to start with medium-grit sandpaper (120–150 grit), moving in the direction of the wood grain. A sanding sponge or an orbital sander speeds up the process on flat surfaces.
Chairs have lots of curves and spindles, so flexible sanding pads, or rolled sandpaper, work better for getting into tricky spots. Try to avoid sanding too aggressively, as it’s easy to flatten profiles or create dents. Finish with a fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit) for a uniform, smooth surface before refinishing a piece of furniture.
Cleaning Off Dust And Residue
When sanding is finished, fine dust and residue need to be removed before any new finish goes on. First, it’s helpful to wipe the chair down with a vacuum brush attachment or a soft-bristle brush to pick up loose dust. A slightly damp microfiber cloth catches lingering particles. I’ve even used liquid sandpaper as a final step to remove anything in the small crevices.
For sticky residue from strippers, a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol ensures the wood is clean, but the chair should dry thoroughly before proceeding. Missing this step can cause the new finish to stick unevenly or bubble, so extra care here leads to better results for you dining set.
Fixing And Repairing Chairs
Chair frames often suffer from wear and tear, especially at joints and along wooden parts. These issues commonly lead to wobbling, creaking, or visible surface cracks that need attention before refinishing.
Inspecting For Damage Or Loose Joints
Next step, start by turning the chair upside down on a sturdy surface to check for damaged parts. Look for:
- Wobbly legs
- Rattling joints
- Visible cracks or splits in the wood
- Missing or stripped screws and nails
Gently shake different parts of the chair, especially the chair seats. Any movement points to a loose joint or hardware issue.
Press along the backrest and seat for weak spots. Use a flashlight if necessary to spot hairline cracks or gaps in the joints. If the chair uses dowels, inspect for looseness, which can signal old glue failure. All findings should be noted before starting repairs.
Repairing Cracks And Replacing Screws
For minor cracks, clean dust from the gap and squeeze in wood glue. Clamp the area until the glue dries. For larger splits, use wood filler first, then sand smooth once dry. One of my favorite wood filler products is Bondo.
Replace missing screws with ones of the same length and diameter. If old screw holes are stripped, insert a wooden toothpick or dowel coated in glue, then reinsert the screw after the glue sets.
Tighten any loose bolts with the correct tool. For broken joints, remove any old glue and apply new wood glue before clamping.
Applying A New Finish
Now it’s time to make it pretty! Choose the right finish, apply it properly, and allowing enough drying time. Paying attention to details like final touch-ups makes a noticeable difference in the durability and look of the chairs.
You can see below where we applied a white paint finish to these old brown cane back chairs.
Choosing Paint, Stain, Or Sealant
There are several options for refreshing chair surfaces. Paint provides solid color and good coverage, and it works well for wood or metal. Stain highlights the wood grain and offers a more natural look (especially to bare wood), while clear sealants emphasize the original tone but protect the surface.
Gloss, satin, and matte are common sheens for both paint and sealant. Satin is popular for busy kitchens since it hides fingerprints and small scratches well.
Consider these factors:
- Chair material (wood, metal, laminate)
- How much use the chairs get
- Desired appearance (natural wood versus full color)
Applying The First Coat
A clean, dust-free surface is essential. Use a tack cloth or a microfiber rag to remove any particles left from sanding.
For paint, use a high-quality paint brush or small foam roller. Apply in thin, even coats, brushing with the grain of the wood. A paint sprayer works good too. We’ve got a post on our three favorite paint sprayers if you are interested.
For stain, apply with a clean cloth or foam brush, let it soak briefly, and wipe off any excess with a fresh rag. Always follow the product’s instructions for application.
Don’t overload the brush or roller. Thin coats reduce drips and uneven spots. Take extra care around spindles and detail work, making sure to cover all surfaces evenly. A good way to paint a chair that has a lot of curves and crevices is with a sprayer.
Check out our modern chair makeover. You won’t believe what it looks like now.
Drying Times And Additional Coats
Each finish needs time to set before it’s safe to handle or apply more. Water-based products usually dry faster than oil-based ones. Standard drying times are:
| Finish Type | Touch Dry (approx.) | Recoat Time |
|---|---|---|
| Water-based | 1–2 hours | 2–4 hours |
| Oil-based | 4–8 hours | 8–24 hours |
| Spray finishes | 30–60 minutes | 1–2 hours |
Humidity and temperature can speed up or slow down drying. Always wait the recommended time between coats, and sand lightly with fine-grit paper (220 or higher) after each layer when refinishing wood. Most projects need two or three coats for ideal coverage and protection.
Finishing Touches And Buffing
Once the final coat is fully dry, inspect the finish under bright light to find any imperfections. Lightly sand rough spots or drips using a fine sanding sponge, then wipe away any dust.
For a smoother feel, buff the surface with a soft cloth or very fine steel wool (grade 0000). For extra protection and a waxed look, apply a thin coat of furniture wax and buff to a low sheen. Reattach any hardware or pads after finishing is complete. Let chairs cure for several days before regular use.
For high traffic use, use a polyurethane sealer or other liquid sealer product (clear coat).
That’s it folks! I hope we’ve given you all the details on how to refinish kitchen chairs!